Over the hills - Day 6

Somehow in yesterday's post I forgot to mention the Mourn mountains. They had been a presence for a good few miles before Newcastle and the town itself sits at the base with many trails starting just at the edge of the town.

Up at 7am I had spent some time rejigging my route for the day (more on that in a moment) before gong for a look around, the morning had again dawned bright and clear, and for a while at least it seemed that I would be cycling in the sunshine again, I went for a walk along the beach, the tide was out and it was a bit of a walk out to the water, finally getting the paddle I had missed since Irvine, I looked back at the town and the beach front with the mountains behind presented a stunning view! After taking in the quiet of the morning for a few minutes and enjoying the peacefulness of the beach - likely to be full to brim by the afternoon if the day before had been anything to go by, I headed back to the hostel to pack up and check out.

I had been looking at accommodation options for the past couple of days for tonight and tomorrow, and hadn't really had much luck. Ideally I had wanted to find something cheap in or around Dundalk, and then something else around Skerries, alas there does not seem to be much in the way of budget accommodation in these 2 places. I widened my search and realised that the nearest option was probably Drogheda, which happened to be in between the 2 places. If I kept to the plan to overnight in Dundalk, it would  I mean a pretty  short ride the following day, followed  by a longer ride into Dublin, meaning less time in the city, and I was already spending less time there than I would like.

Another option presented itself, could I make Drogheda tonight? It would mean the longest day cycling yet (and in fact the longest I had cycled in one day ever), as well as the most climbing of the trip. But might be possible. Alternatively, from Dundalk I could get the train to Drogheda depending on when I arrived there and how I felt. That would mean missing the road down past Castlebellingham, which was supposed to be very pretty, but on the plus side, it meant that I would be in Dublin on Wednesday night instead of Thursday lunchtime, and get a full day in the city before coming home on Friday. I checked the train times and it looked like it ran every 2 hours at 20 past the hour. Great.

Decision made I booked my accommodation and looked at my route. The original miles once through Tollymore forest park cut across to Newry and then down to Dundalk, but now it had been confirmed that the ferry between Greencastle and Greenore was open, I could cut down to the coast past Warren Point and Rostrevor instead and shave some miles and a climb off the route.

Plan in place and refreshed from my walk, I said farewell to Steph and got back on the bike. The road out of Newcastle climbed for a bit as expected - the map showed the first 10miles or so being almost completely up hill with another good climb a few miles further on. At least it would all be over with by lunchtime. It wasn't as bad as I thought it might be however, and soon turned down again undulating a bit to the entrance to the park, because I wanted to enjoy the park, and because of the climbing while going through it, I expected to take a good couple of hours to traverse the first 10 miles.

The park was beautiful, the avenue leading in was full of fantastically shaped trees that looked ancient, and soon I was following the river along earth and gravel paths with trees and forest foliage on either side. The river had worn itself a gully and was mostly heard more than seen given the thick foliage around it. I was walking along the trails as much as cycling - partly because of the changing gradient, partly because of the rough terrain, and partly because I was just enjoying the experience. I could easily have spent a full day exploring the forest and might make my way back there in the future. I had taken the red trail, wanting to see the cascades, and thinking I might detour to the white fort, marked on the map. As it was I caught glimpses of the cascades, and completely missed a turn. The map only showed the marked trails, not any other paths of which there seemed to be quite a few. My signal was dropping in and out and I kept trying to check my location on Google maps against the park map to see where I was. I thought I was at the path to the fort and followed it, only to find myself at a junction. I gave up and turned back, as I rode back down the track to continue back on the path I had been following before the detour 2 tiny spotted deer crossed the path in front of me. I wished I had the action cam running - it really was a blink and you miss it moment!

Sure that at least this way I was heading in the right general direction to come out the other side, eventually I came to a viewpoint and stopped to admire the sweeping tree filled glen below me, with fields and farmhouses on the opposite slope. It was here I finally worked out that I was just coming out of the park - but not on the road I had planned to use! I was on Trassey road, it started out as an unpaved farm track, and soon became a paved road - uphill of course. Where it came out there happened to be a campsite with a cafe called Meelmore lodge. I waivered about going on but checked the time and it was half 11 - perfect timing for a cuppa.

On walking through the carpark to the cafe I was doubly glad of my decision. The mountains rose up just ahead of the campsite and the view was spectacular. The early morning sunshine had begun to be obscured by cloud cover as I was leaving Newcastle and by this point the sky was pretty much all clouds. They shrouded the peaks and produced a blue haze in parts. It was stunning, and lifted my spirits a bit. While I loved the forest and had enjoyed the journey so far, I had at the back of my mind all the climbing involved today. As mentioned previously I am not a lover of hills, and despite quite a bit of it having been through the park and so done already, in my mind I had built it up to be far worse than the actuality, and it had me feeling a bit blue about the next part of the ride. The fabulous backdrop, a slice of carrot cake and a rare cup of coffee while I decided on my next direction was just what I needed.

Because I had come out of the park on a slightly different road than planned, I had 2 options, head to Hilltown to rejoin the route to Warren point and then head down the side of Carlingford Lough, to get the ferry, or cut down through Attical and Kilkeel, which looked a bit shorter, and had been recommended by one of the guys on the forum. I decided to take the cut through, and don't regret it. There wasn't a huge difference in climb and it cut a couple more miles off the journey. And it was fantastically scenic.

The first little part was uphill, but the gradient wasn't too steep, I was resolved to relax and just enjoy the journey without worrying too much about what lay ahead. By this point I was passing though mountainous scenery, and could almost imagine myself in the Scottish highlands. The hills around me were covered in scrub grass and gorse, with the occasional grazing field for cardstock thrown in. I could see where streams had cleared the earth and vegetation away leaving rocky gullies in their wake. The main difference was the lack of heather on the hills. Closer to the road there were reed beds and marsh cotton (not sure what it's really called!) here and there mixed in where water off the hills had created biggy patches, and along side the road, wild grasses gone to seed, clover, buttercups and thistle were growing in abundance. And if I was only moving at 3/4/5miles an hour, at least I was moving! I felt much better, and chided myself - in the end today the mental challenge was harder to overcome than the physical one. Just goes to show how important your mindset can be when you are doing something you find difficult.

It was along Slievenaman road that I met Michael a farmer who lived locally. We chatted for a bit and I told him about my trip. He admittex for all that he had lived locally all hid life he had never been to Greenore. He was a lovely man, and told me that I was over the worst of the climb before we bade each other farewell. I took this with a pinch of salt, seeing a long slope ahead, and knowing from experience that drivers don't always realise the extent of the ups and downs they cover in a car. I was surprised to see a bus stop on coming towards the top of the slope, turns out there is a ramblers bus route that stops at the start and end of walks.  Fab idea! There was also a car park and what looked like the start of a trail, obviously a well trodden walk.

Once over the top I found that in this case Michael had the right of it. I had 8 easy beautiful miles to Kilkeel, with stretches of water in the near distance, some natural and some that looked like dams or reservoirs, I could soon see the scenery around me changing from mountains to lowland farms, passing many farmhouses and hamlets, I must have at least doubled my average speed with all the coasting I was doing. I was soon going down the hill into Kilkeel.

It was bigger than I had expected - a small town rather than a village, and the time now being just after 1 I decided to stop for lunch - Greencastle where I was to get the ferry wasn't even marked on the map without zooming right in and looked like a landmark rather than a village, and since the ferry service had only started a week or 2 ago I didn't expect much in the way of amenities. I stopped in at the Steaming Mug coffee house and refuelled with some very tasty vegetable soup and wheaten bread. It turned out one of the ladies there was from Perth and had visited her sister in Edinburgh just a couple of weeks back. Small world.

Setting off again, and it was an easy 5 miles to the ferry. The new service isn't very well signposted yet, but I followed the signs to Greencastle and found it ok. I realised on the way that I never had gotten round to buying euros, and hoped they took pounds as well or I might have an issue! They did, but in the end it was moot as I barely had any cash on me, and bought the ticket online instead. Thank goodness for technology and a working internet connection! I did need to sort the euro issue though. I remembered that I had a prepaid euro card which just lives in my purse, transferred some money on to it and was good to go. On the other side of the ferry waited the Republic of Ireland.

The people crossing seemed to be a mixed bunch - there were 2 other cyclists, a man and his grandson, just nipping across to Carlingford for an ice cream, they both had what looked like pretty decent roadbikes and i wS jealous of their lack of luggage! A lady who had taken a day trip with her mum, and people who were obviously on holiday, or just visiting, as well as a few I took to be commuting. The ferry was bearly full, and the man directing cars back at Greencastle had told me it was so far very popular.

Once on the other side it was back on the bike. The change in countries hit home when I saw my first roadsign. 24km to Dundalk.  For someone used to dealing on miles, I always have trouble doing the conversion in my head. I worked out this meant around 15 miles or so, and started pedalling. I stuck to the main road rather than detour round the coast, the flapmash (if you dont know, dony ask!) Was starting to make itself felt and i wanted to get to Dundalk. It was mostly easy going on fairly flat, if fast roads with cars whizzing by, but with a lane for slow vehicles for most of the distance I felt safe enough. The mountains had completely fallen away and it was rolling green farmland and small villages for the most part. I missed an opportunity to turn on to R132 which would have given me a quieter run into Dundalk itself, but caught the next one and made it into the town just before 5pm - just in time for the 5.20 train if I wanted to catch it. I knew I wasn't going to cycle the rest of the way, but I kind of wanted to see a bit of the town itself. I made a deal with myself. If I walked down the mainstreet, saw a sign for the train station, and made it in time I would get the 5.20 train, if not I would have dinner in Dundalk, wander about a bit and get the next one at 7.20.

Needless to say, I got the later train! I really liked the town and the main square has a water feature for kids to play in, as well as an installation of art prices telling the story of the 2 old men of Ireland. I won't tell you it, but you should go Google it or something. It explains how many of Ireland's places got their names. I had a bite to eat at a cafe looking over the square, (taco Tuesday's anyone?) And had a slight moment of panic when I couldn't remember the pin for the prepay card and had to use my normal card, but checked online and all i had to do for a reminder was phone up and answer some security questions. The cafe started closing up about 6, and I decided I should probably find the train station just in case it was difficult or far away.

In the end it was a fairly easy journey through a lovely park called ice house hill park - a beautiful space to have near the centre of the town. After checking directions with a couple of locals and chatting for a bit, I made it to the train station for 6.30.

I think it may be one of the prettiest stations I have ever been to. It had been restored to it's original character, had a ladies and a gentleman's waiting room, station masters office and other original features.  Warm yellow bricks, and hanging baskets of flowers all in bloom throughout finished it off nicely. I settled in to wait and began writing today's post.

When the train came I had to put the bike in the guards carriage at the front and run down past the first class carriages, and then the same in reverse when getting off! I was slightly worried the train would be off with the bike, but in the end all was well and the bike came with me instead of stranding me pedalless in Drogheda, and making its own way to Dublin.

Tonight's stay is in the Spoon and Star literally 2 minutes downhill from the station, and it's the busiest hostel I have stayed in so far. After a good chat and some ideas on what to do in the morning (checkout is 11, so I thought I'd spend an hour or so here before heading off again) it was time to finish the post and get to bed!

Night ya'll...

Newcastle from the beach - panorama

Newcastle from the beach 

From the viewing platform leaving Tollymore forest

Just before meeting Michael 

At Greencastle waiting on ferry

Good by NI!

Hello Eire

At Dundalk train station

View from train coming into Drogheda

At Dundalk train station

View back down Slievenaman road just about to cross over the top.

Legs don't tan...Day 5

What a fabulous day! 😁

I wasn't sure how I would feel this morning, but while my legs were still a tiny bit achey when I got up, they soon warmed up and the aches were left behind.

I had really enjoyed my time in Belfast and fully intend to go back at some point and stay for a few days while exploring the North Coast. Arnie's had been great, although the washing I had given them wasn't quite dry unfortunately. Not wanting to delay my start though, I packed it away in a plastic bag to hang up when I reached Newcastle. That's Newcastle, Ireland, before anyone says anything!

Leaving the hostel slathered in suncream, I was pleased to find that my route took me through the botanical gardens and along the river. I had considered a walk round here the day before as it was so close to the hostel, but didn't have time. It was a lovely start to the ride, and I was soon whizzing along Newtonards road. I paused along here to check my tyres at a David Kanes Cycles, and also put my seat up a tad as I was beginning to feel it could have been a bit higher. Wow. What a difference. There were some roadworks along here, but I was soon through them and on my way out of town. The road went by the Stormont estate and so I got another glimpse of the parliament buildings. There was a decent path next to the road,but no signs to say whether it was shared use or not, so I stuck to the road for a bit until finally coming through Dundonald it was advertised as a shared path. The traffic had been giving me a good berth, but was pretty fast, and I felt much better on the pavement. Soon enough though, my reserved bit of tarmac came to an end, we were just heading out of the built up area into the countryside when this happened. I was faced with a choice - carry on climbing a smallish hill on the fast road with the traffic, or take a slight detour along a quieter country lane that had a path alongside. I took the country lane.

I felt like I had plenty of time today, I had left Arnie's about 10, and check-in for my night in Newcastle was up to 9.30pm, so I had a good 11 and a half hours to cycle around 50 miles. It really took the pressure off and meant I could relax a bit and just enjoy the ride.

The little lane climbed for a bit, nothing too strenuous, and while the traffic was much quieter many of the vehicles going by were trucks or lorries. I was still on my bit of pavement though, so didn't feel too bad. The scenery here was farmland for the most part, planted with crops. I soon reached the top of the hill, and had a lovely sweeping downhill into Newtonards - this was to be a theme for the day. I couldn't believe I was there already, it felt like I had barely left Arnie's, but looking at the time I realised it was an hour and a half since I'd set out. Not too bad considering a few stops to work out how to get from the river embankment to Newtonards road out of Belfast and sort the bike.

I took the opportunity to sit in the sun for a bit and had a chocolate milkshake from a cafe, I also bought a couple of bananas and some cherries to snack on through the day. Break time over it was time to go again, and I was soon heading down the east side of the Strangford Lough (pronounced loch for Scottish readers - English or other languages, I don't know what sound to equate it to!) The first section of this is pretty flat and while quite a few cars went by again I found most drivers gave me plenty space, with just the odd one coming a bit close. As the road is fairly marrow I did pull in a few times to let the build up of cars pass me by. 

There is something about travelling next to water that calls to me and the Lough was gorgeous, the shore varying between what looked like sand/mud flats with vegetation, and shell beaches. There are a couple of stopping points with benches for people to enjoy the view and go for a paddle. I took the opportunity to stop at one of these to eat one of my bananas and shared a table with a lovely retired couple from Bangor, out enjoying the sunshine for the day. They had travelled extensively in Scotland and loved it, I agreed I am lucky to live there, but Ireland is just as beautiful, especially on such a gloriously sunny day.

Strangford Lough

Carrying on the road veered away from the Lough slightly, just catching glimpses of it every so often. It also changed from being almost flat to undulate slightly, and I had to work a little harder. The road was taking me through rolling farming country, a mix of fields for grazing live stock - both sheep and cows, and planted fields of crops interspersed with the odd pocket of wild plants. Trees and hedges marked the field boundaries, and the breeze was full of dandelion wishes. Every so often a ruined watchtower or castle would appear, and I tried to take a picture on the action cam, but they came and went so quickly I'm not sure I caught any - this happened a fair bit throughout the day with various sights, I hope I got at least a few of them!

I was soon rolling down a lovely sweeping descent into Portaferry.

I followed the road down to the ferry landing - and then walked back up the hill to get some juice from the shop!

I got there about 1.40, just in time for the 1.45 sailing, but didn't realise and missed it as they only take cash and I walked back up the hill to get money out the machine, I also grabbed a couple of ice lollies and irn bru (I had not expected to find this in NI or Ireland to be honest, but was glad to see it!) and by the time I walked back down I was just in time to see the ferry pulling away. It was a lovely little place though, I spent the next half hour taking a wander up the street and back and then took the opportunity to call my friend Amanda who had called me earlier in the day. The ferry arrived while we were on the phone and had docked on the other side by the time we finished chatting (it only took about 10 minutes to cross). 

In Strangford I looked for a place to eat called the lobster pot, which was recommended to me by the couple I met earlier, but as they suspected there was no outdoor seating and it seemed a shame to sit in on such a glorious day. So I ended up at the Cuan instead, they were really busy and it took a while to get served (very tasty Cullen skink soup, if not quite as good as that served at the Old Chain Pier back home - but I may be biased!) And it was just before 4 that I was back on the road.

More Game of Thrones on display in the Cuan

I had spent some of the waiting time deciding on my next direction as the coast road had been recommended by both someone on the forum, and Arnie, I had been reluctant to do this previously as it added about 8miles to my day, but it was a lovely day, I had loads of time, and it reduced the climbing by about 500feet. In addition, it looked like the original route was along a main road, and likely to be busy. One of the staff told me it was a good climb out of Strangford on the Downpatrick road, and that clinched it. The Shore road it was. I don't regret it.

The road undulated a fair bit, but not to an unmanageable amount, and there was a down for most of the ups (my mantra climbing on a bike is #worthitforthedownhills, and #worthitfortheview) and for the first few miles I followed the coast, there was a slight refreshing breeze most of the way which was quite welcome, and again I had great views of the sea, this time on my left instead of my right. There are some lovely beaches down this stretch with the tide out the water looked miles away, with quite a few souls out for a swim or a paddle. I had thought about stopping in Ardglass, but ended up going through and stopping at Killough for a short break instead. This is a tiny town and very pretty.

Setting off again it was only 14 miles to Newcastle. Continuing around the coast there were more beaches on the left and rolling farmland on the right. The road surface was good for the most part, although in places the top surface was a little broken. I paused again at Minerstown, and shortly after ran out of water, with the heat of the day I was drinking a bit more than usual, and the 2 bottles filled up at Strangford didn't last me as long as I thought they would. 

Came across this place just after I ran out of water, really wished it was open

I planned to refill at Clough, but there was a couple of hills to go up and I ended up stopping and knocking on the door of a farmhouse to ask for refills! 

The lady who answered couldn't have been more helpful, and topped me up with water sourced and filtered locally by her neighbours and cold from the fridge. Delicious, and just what I needed. I was soon in and out of Clough, and on the home stretch to Newcastle, the road flattened out and descended, and while a good wide road I know that if I had taken it the whole way from Strangford I wouldn't have enjoyed it nearly as much as I did my coastal run.

Arriving at the hostel I was met by Veronica and Steph, both of whom made me feel extremely welcome. I had arrived at the same time as a family from France come to do some hiking, and we got a tour of the hostel together. The Hutt hostel has just been refurbished, and everything is new - my bed was just built today! I soon settled in, it had been a beautiful days cycling and as I got cleaned up I could see I had definitely caught the sun despite several layers of sun cream- on my face and arms anyway! As usual, my legs remain a stubborn white. Ah well maybe one day...

I met the one other person in my room for the night Becca from Seattle in the USA. She climbed the Mournes today, and is taking a week to tour Northern Ireland after spending a month in Galway on a university study abroad programne before going home.

We walked up the street together to find dinner, taking away, we finished the evening watching the last of the sunset over the ocean with a lighthouse flashing in the distance and the sky turning from blue and pale pink and orange to dark blue. Bliss.

Heading back to the hostel I had a slight moment of panic when my key didn't work in the door, but luckily Becca's did and we are now settling down for another good nights sleep!

Oíche mhaith all, tomorrow is another adventure!

And Relax - Day 4

So today has been really relaxed. I was up fairly early, and set off from the hostel around 9.00 to explore, I took a walk round and, as in many cities, decided an open top bus tour was the way to go to see as much of the city as possible in my short stay here.

I was tempted to get off at the HMS Caroline, a refurbished battle ship, or the Titanic experience, but both of these would have taken some time to go through. It was a nice day and I didn't want to spend too much of it indoors!

Parlaiment Building at Stormont

I stayed on the bus and saw the Parliament building at Stormont and we passed a few of the murals Belfast is known for. I got off at St Georges market as recommended by my colleague and manager who is from Belfast, and also by Arnie from the hostel. I spent a good couple of hours here, tons of stalls selling everything from raw fish to original art prints, antique bricabrac type stalls and several jewelry stands. I kept returning to one of these which was selling steampunk type clockwork pieces and bought a timepiece necklace. Looking at it now I realise the time on it isn't right, I will need to work out how to wind it!

Bustling St Georges market

Sent this to my friend Erin

I also had lunch here - never having eaten Irish soda bread I decided now would be the time to try and bought myself a soda fala - basically a breakfast soda bread with egg, sausage, bacon and black pudding. The guy who made these was brilliant to watch - and piled on the bacon. I asked for just one sausage and not too much bacon, I knew I wouldn't be able to manage some of the portions he had been dishing out to others! It was really tasty and I think I am now a soda bread convert. I also balanced this out with a fresh made smoothie and an orange juice, so I had at least a couple of my 5 a day!

I jumped back on the bus and got off a few stops further on which happened to be close to Arnies, I needed to move my things from the room I had been in last night, to a new room for tonight, and I also wanted to get changed into something cooler, and grab my water bottle. Just before the stop the guide had told us about the Game of Thrones tapestry on display in the Ulster museum just up the street, so I popped in there first. If you are a fan of the show and are in Belfast while it is on display I would definitely recommend going to see it. It has been designed by artists and illustrators, who then pass the designs to a weaver to be woven on a jacquard loom. Once the basic design is done further details are then hand embroidered. It follows the TV series rather than the books, and captures all the major plot points from the story, it is incomplete as it will be added to as the next 2 seasons are released. I also took some time to have a look around The Troubles exhibition. I knew Belfast had a violent past, but this really brought home to me how bad things had been during this period.

Back in Arnies I took the opportunity to sit in the sun in the tiny garden for a bit talking to the staff. I hadn't realised, but the staff are mostly there to gain experience in working in a hostel/bnb environment while studying a related subject, this means that they change every few weeks/months depending on how long they stay for. The girls there currently are lovely, and couldn't have been more helpful. I had handed over a pile of laundry that morning, putting £5 n the charity box as payment - at Arnie's the money you pay for many of the extras offered at most hostels all goes to charities.

Heading off again I had a short wait in the sunshine before getting back on the bus. The tour continued around The Falls Road and Shankhill, predominantly nationalist and unionist areas respectively. Here the guide talked much more about the murals and the history of the city cementing what I had learned in the museum earlier. Nowadays the battle is much more about political stance than it is religion, and all about civil negotiations rather than violence. Looking at Belfast now, it is hard to imagine the horrific sectarian motivated acts which took place during that period. The city has certainly changed.

The tour coming to an end I made my way to an internet cafe to get the pictures from the action cam over the last few days so that I can add them to my posts. Successfully got them on my Google drive, but now need to work out how to move them from there to blogger, so you will need to wait a bit longer! It now being 6pm, I went to find some dinner.

I finished off the evening in a pub called 5 Points, which has live music 7 nights a week.  Aware of the early start and day of cycling ahead I was restrained in my alcohol intake drinking just a pint of cider over a couple of hours while enjoying the music. It was here I got chatting to Lana from Salt Lake City, Utah, a researcher who was in Belfast for work on a collaborative project in eye diseases particularly for diabetics, and Mateus a business man from Germany, who had been on a language course in Dublin with his work and took the opportunity for a weekend break to Belfast. The 3 of us spent a pleasant couple of hours chatting, about ourselves, the various tours we had done.

I learned that Lana could palpitate a mouse to make it pee in a test tube - no small skill among scientists! As well as play piano, and make pottery - definitely a multi talented lady!

Mateus had spent the day on a tour to the giants causeway - a natural rock formation off the coast to the north of Belfast a sight I must visit some time....another thing to add to my list! It sounded like a great tour.

Having an early bus to catch he left a bit before us, Lana and I were heading in the same direction and both having to be up early we left shortly after, keeping each other company on the walk back towards our respective accommodations.

Unfortunately my phone battery had died earlier in the evening so I don't have any pictures to share from the evening.

To the ferry! Day three

Ok. I'm not gonna lie. Today was tough.

I have a bit of time to kill so this post is also going to a bit longer than the other 2!

Let me give you a bit of background info so you understand some of what comes later.

As mentioned previously I haven't really arranged accommodation in advance as, if I don't reach my intended destination each day, I don't want to be cancelling at the last minute. The exception was tonight and tomorrow. Knowing I had to get the ferry to Belfast I put out some feelers a few days ago and had been in contact with an independent hostel called Arnie's.

Initially, they couldn't accommodate me, but I got an email advising they had a cancellation, did I still want the room? Yes please! What time BEFORE 9pm would I arrive in Belfast. Ah. I was booked on the 7.30pm sailing from Cairnryan. The ticket asked me to be at the ferry port an hour before that so 6.30. the ferry didn't arrive in Belfast until 9.45pm. the earlier ferry left at 3.30, meaning I would have to be there for 2.30. I had bought a flexible ticket just in case of problems. Could I get to the ferry port in time for the earlier sailing time?

I checked the map and Google told me that I had 43 miles to cycle. If I left as planned around 9/9.30am That gave me 5 hours to get there. Doable. If tight. I told Arnie this, and he said as I was cycling he would wait for me if I didn't make it. If I could get the 3.30 boat that would be preferable, but don't get myself killed trying. Ok. Challenge was on.

When I first got up this morning my legs were a little achey, not too bad, but I could feel it. After a little walking about, a good breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon plus toast and butter x1, toast and Nutella x1, a tangerine and a yoghurt, a glass of orange juice and 2 cups of coffee however, the aches were pretty much gone and I was ready to go.

The first section out of Troon was dead easy, and I found myself passing Prestwick  airport, going through Prestwick and then Ayr in no time. The path for this section was a mixture of coast paths and roads - lovely scenery of beaches and green spaces looking over the Firth of Clyde before it becomes the Atlantic Ocean, interspersed with the odd housing scheme and a quick run through Ayr main Street before cycling along the promenade. There were quite a few folk out, walking dogs, just walking, or cycling. The weather after threatening rain just as I was leaving had instead remained clear, and while not sunny, it was still a nice morning. If I had more time I may have stopped and paddled, but I had a ferry to catch.

Passing Prestwick

Ayr Town Centre

Passing through Ayr

Coming out of Ayr I got my first real but fairly small hill of the day, managed up it feeling ok, and had fabulous views looking back towards Ayr. The small lane I was on went past Greenans Castle, there was a bench with 2 girls and a small motorbike, it looked like they were on tour too. I said hello as I went past, and then it was downhill to meet back up with the A719, this was a fairly wide road with a good surface and most of the passing traffic gave me a wide berth, it was around 11 when I passed Craig Tara holiday park, and I felt like I was making good time, and enjoying the ride. I passed another female cyclist with panniers who looked like she was also touring, going in the opposite direction, and we gave each other a wave.

Looking back towards Ayr near Greenan Castle

It was shortly after this that route 7 turned off the main road, a sign saying 7 miles to Maybole, where I would abandon the route in favour of the A77 to the ferry port.  Great only 7 miles! But next to the turn off was another sign, pointing the same way which gave me an 'oh dear' moment. It said Carrick Hills. Now I don't mind the odd hill, I'm not a lover of them like my fellow Belles Ullie and Claire, but I can normally manage them ok if I need to. But these hills had a name. And that meant they were big enough to be a land mark. Which meant they would be tough.

Climbing the Carrick Hills

Looking back part way  up

Sure enough, the gradient soon became too much for me, and I'm not ashamed to say that a lot of the next few miles were spent walking rather than cycling. Those 7 miles to Maybole took me around 2 hours. My hopes of catching the 3.30 sailing were vanishingly slim.

At the top looking back to Ayr

The hills themselves were challenging and beautiful, I had great views back towards Ayr - not so much on the other side. I was hoping for a lovely descent to make up for all the climbing, but it never really materialised. Nevertheless the country lane I was following while quite potholed in parts was fairly good for the type of terrain, there were sheep out to graze on the scrub grass on the hill and the scent of bracken filled the air on the way up, the vegetation was mostly bracken and gorse, which was not yet flowering - I can imagine when it is in bloom it would also fill the air with its scent as well as brightening up the scene with its brilliant yellow flowers, but that will happen later in the year.

Looking back some more

I finally reached the top and found a passing place where people had obviously parked up to enjoy the view and eat dinner - unfortunately the reason I could tell this was from the rubbish they left behind, why can't people take it with them and dispose of it responsibly??? I considered stopping for 5 minutes and cleaning up a little, but I had nowhere to put the rubbish - and I had a ferry to catch! Despite the slow ascent I still hoped to make the ferry.  The path levelled out a lot undulating a little along the top of the hill. I was really feeling it in my legs now and felt a bit like a jack in the box jumping on and off the bike.

Eventually though what goes up must come down, and I got a bit of a descent, although filled with potholed/gravelly roads and sharp corners I had to take it slow. It also wasn't long before I was climbing again, it went on like this for some time and I was beginning to think I had missed a turn. Eventually I saw a sign for route 7 turning right - up yet another hill! Walking up here again there were some raspberry bushes growing in the hedge row, so of course I picked some to eat as I went by - can't beat wild raspberries! I paused at the top to eat a banana and some energy ball mush (it had been nicely shaped, but the mix is quite sticky, and they had lost the shape lovingly rolled while at Heather's) still, very tasty and full of energy they gave me a boost. Finally there was another sign for Maybole - only 2 miles to go.

Coming out of Maybole I turned onto the A77 and finally got a bit of the descent I had been expecting. The road here was wide and well kept. The next 5 miles or so were pretty easy, and I enjoyed not having to pedal so hard. It is quite a fast road, but again most of the traffic gave me a good berth, and I was passed by quite a lot of cars and the front part of a lorry. Soon enough the route I was following turned me into another country lane, I checked the map and it looked like it cut off a corner of the A77 route so I went with it, it was actually a lovely little lane and gave me a great view of the sea coming back to the coast, with a nice downhill back to the A77 I didn't regret it, if it hadn't saved me time it was much nicer to be away from the traffic and when I met back with the A77 it was 5 miles to Girvan. Shortly after this the same front part of lorry went by me again and I was doubly glad of the decision, it seemed it had saved some time after all.

I liked the look of Girvan as I went through it, but didn't stop - although maybe I should have. By this point I had given up hope of making the earlier boat, but thought I would push on just in case. I was also pretty much out of water. I did see the train station and considered that as an option for about 20 seconds, but not knowing the frequency of the trains, how long it would take to Stranraer, and how long the cycle from Stranraer to Cairnryan would be I decided against it. Sorry Arnie! By this point it was 1.30, the satnav said I still had 20 or so miles to go (had I really only done 23?) And I knew I wouldn't get there on time.

Stopping at the lovely looking Woodhouse Farm Hotel and Restaurant to fill up my water bottles and use the facilities, one of the staff there told me I had another long ascent ahead before the road undulated down to Cairnryan. Thanking him for the warning I carried on and soon found myself climbing again, I hadn't seen a sign for the village he had mentioned so wasn't sure if this was the hill he meant or not but it was also at this point that the rain I had avoided to date finally caught up with me, I can tell you that climbing a hill in a downpour may not be fun, but actually it was quite refreshing in its way - I don't mind a bit of rain so long as I know I can get warm and dry at the end of it. The hill proved a challenge though and I stopped a few times on the way up, and was passed by a fellow cyclist also on tour. At the end though there was a lovely long downhill, and the weather let up a little, the rain turning to a refreshing shower for the next hour or so.

Passing through Ballantrae I was soon climbing again. A sign near the bottom of the ascent had told me it was 10 miles to Cairnryan. Not far to go! Except the hill went up. And up. And up. I was doing my jackinabox impression again, and taking the opportunity to snack and rehydrate on the way up. Finally reaching the top another sign told me it was now 6 miles to Cairnryan. I had covered only 4 miles. On the plus side, the weather had cleared and I had dried off a little. The next bit of road was easy, the road widened out and it was mostly downhill- where it did go up again mostly my momentum took me up the small slopes.

Descent to Cairnryan

To the left of me was rock face which was blocked in by wire fencing in case of rockfalls, but every so often a waterfall would make an appearance, gushing down the rocks and disappearing under the road. To the right was a tree covered slope. My legs still felt weak, but I was buoyed by the refreshing downhill and very soon after I could see the sea appearing again, quickly followed by the ferry terminal to the right. I had made it - sadly an hour and a half late for the earlier boat, but I was here.

The Ferry Terminal!

The terminal was deserted, but I rang the bell on the counter and someone appeared from a back room. Check in for the next boat wasn't open yet, but I could wait here, and as soon  as a female security guard appeared I could check in and get a hot drink and something to eat in the cafe. I emailed Arnie to let him know and took the opportunity for a quick change into dry clothes. I checked my mileage 58 miles! So much for the 43 promised by Google! Not sure exactly where I went wrong, but either I hadn't checked properly in the morning or Google had lied to me. Another nearly 60 mile day - and despite how tough it felt, my average speed was actually slightly faster! All the downhill made a difference after all.

Once through security I could relax, grab a drink and a sandwich and start writing today's post. My tablet died before I had finished, so I had to wait to finish and publish the post.

I am now ensconced in a tiny bed  in the hostel. The ferry crossing was lovely. Normally on a boat I would spend a good portion of time out on deck watching the waves, but not this time! This time I had booked onto the Nordic spa when I bought my ticket. Massage treatments were also offered so I took the opportunity to get a massage for my aching muscles and spent most of trip in a jacuzzi.

When I came out I had just enough time for fish and chips before the ferry docked in Belfast at 9.45pm.  I had to wait for the cars to go off deck and chatted to a motorcyclist who had been on a group tour in Scotland and was just heading home. Cycling off the boat I was finally in Belfast! I realised it was getting dark and stopped to put on my lights, set the satnav for Armies, and pedalled my first miles in Northern Ireland. I got a bit turned around and it was close to 11 before I arrived at the hostel. Arnie was very welcoming, showed me around, and offered me a cup of tea. All I really wanted though was a bed! All they had available for tonight is a tiny room with bunkbeds normally reserved for staff, but as I said to Arnie all I need is somewhere to lay my head - I'm not fussed what it looks like or how big it is, I'm just grateful to have somewhere to sleep.

Ferry docking in Belfast

As above

Coming into Belfast

First miles in Belfast!

On that note the sandman is most definitely calling. Time to go to sleep. I have a city to explore tomorrow.